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Overview

  • Trip Type: expeditions
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Duration: 44 Day(s)
  • Max Alt.: 8,125m / 26,660ft
  • Group Size: 1-12
  • Location: Pakistan
  • Arrival On: Pakistan
  • Departure From: Pakistan

Mt. Nanga Parbat Expedition (8125M)

Mt. Nanga Parbat is truly an awesome spectacle. It is the ninth-highest mountain in the world and the second-highest in Pakistan after K2. The south face is the largest in the world extending over four kilometers above the base camp. To date, there have only been five ascents from the south. Nanga Parbat means “Naked Mountain” in Hindi/Urdu and is with reference to the south face’s exposed rock buttresses. The north face is equally intimidating. In contrast to the south face’s steep rock and ice a broad barrier of seracs that extend the width of the mountain guards the snowy north face. Climbers before the Second World War were convinced that the only way to climb the mountain was from the north via a long arc extending over Rakhiot Peak (7010m), between the two summits of Silberzacken and finally to the summit of Nanga Parbat thereby avoiding a more direct ascent of the north face. The route was dangerously prone to avalanches and exposed to bad weather. 31 people died attempting to climb the mountain leading to it acquiring the infamous name of the “Killer Mountain”.

Nowadays it is not such a killer and there are other peaks that could inherit the nickname (eg Ultar or Batura I). Hermann Buhl’s summit route has only been repeated once (Slovak, 1971) to this day. His ascent marked only the third 8000m ascent after Annapurna I (1950) and Everest and was the only first summit of all the 8000ers to be done without oxygen and of course solo. Most attempts nowadays are via the Westerly Diamir face, which is generally considered to be the easiest and safest with the Kinshofer Route, the normal route.

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack the western side and all routes here lead to “The Japanese Couloir”, which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long southeast ridge to the summit.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive at Gandhara International Airport, Islamabad

Your flights will normally arrive in Islamabad in the afternoon. Our Himalayan Windhorse guide(s) will receive you from the airport. Soon the participants will be transferred to hotels. This day the participants can relax and recover from the journey.

Day 2: Free day at Islamabad

On this day we will have have briefing from the Department of Tourism regarding the Nanga Parbat Expedition in Islamabad before travelling to Chillas.

After briefing we will spend time exploring Islamabad and we will have a taste of tradition Pakistani Food.

Day 3: Drive to Chilas via Karakoram Highway

The participants will drive to Chilas via Karakoram Highway. They will pass through Abbotabad, Mansehra, Besham, Dasu and Sazin villages to reach Chilas. Participants will spend their night in Chilas.

Day 4: Drive to Halala Bridge and Camp at Zangot

On this day of the Nanga Parbat Expedition we will continue to drive Halala Bridge from Bunar Das. From this point onward we will walk to Zangot and camp there for the night.

Day 5: Trek Kutgali

On this day of the Nanga Parbat Expedition we will trek from Zangot to Kutgali and camp here for the night.

Day 6: Trek to Nanga Parbat Diamir Base Camp

On this day of Nanga Parbat Expedition we will set our way from Kutgali to Nanga Parbat Diamir Base Camp.

Day 7-38: Nanga Parbat Ascend

We will start our ascend to the mountain on this day and continue our climb during the four weeks duration. We will have contingency days for better weather windows. Apricot Tours Team will set up the base camp for the Nanga Parbat Expedition and will continue to assist the expedition during the time frame.

Day 39: Trek to Kutgali

On this day of Nanga Parbat Expedition, we retrace our steps to Kutgali from Nanga Parbat Base Camp.

Day 40: Trek to Zangot

On this day of Nanga Parbat Expedition, we retrace our steps to Zangot from Kutgali.

Day 41: Trek to Halala Bridge

On this day of Nanga Parbat Expedition, we retrace our steps from Zangot from Halala Bridge and drive from this point to the hotel.

Day 42: Drive to Islamabad

On this day of the Nanga Parbat Expedition, we will drive back to Islamabad. We will take short intervals on the way. In the evening we will reach our hotel in Islamabad and rest for the night.

Day 43: Debriefing in Islamabad

On this day, we will sign the final documents and attend debreifing for the department of tourism. Remaining time will be used to explore the city or rest at hotel.

Day 44: Fly to home country.

Our staff will transfer all our guests to the airport on their respective departure timings.

Cost Includes

  • ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
  • ACCOMMODATION IN ISLAMABAD : 3 nights hotel in ISLAMABAD (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
  • WELCOME DINNER : One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in ISLAMABAD with Office Staff.
  • CARGO CLEARANCE : Assistance for cargo clearance in Pakistan’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
  • PERMIT : Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of the PAKISTAN Government to climb Nanga Parbat, for members and Sherpa.
  • LIAISON OFFICER : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
  • GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
  • INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese / Pakistani staff during the trek and expedition.
  • MAP : Trekking and climbing map.
  • DUFFLE BAG: A duffle bag of Himalayan Windhorse Adventure
  • MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : LAND TRANSPORTATION (MEMBERS): Drive from Islamabad to Halale via Chilas and while returning from Halale to Islamabad via Chilas, as per itinerary, along with one guide.
  • EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Nepal to Pakistan (by air cargo) – Islamabad to Halae (by truck/jeep) and Base camp (by Porters/mules) – While returning: Base camp to Halale (by porters/mules) and Halale to Islamabad (by Truck/jeep). Based on the condition, different transportation variants may adopt.
  • MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 60 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Mules.
  • FOOD AND LODGING : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/TENT during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and green vegetables, meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served during the entire expedition. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
  • CAMPING : All necessary logistic arrangements for Camping during the trek.
  • PORTER : Porters per member up to the basecamp and from the basecamp (both ways).
  • BASE CAMP STAFF : Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
  • BASE CAMP COOK : 1 Nepalese and 1 Pakistani well-trained cook for the team.
  • STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
  • BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
  • BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • HEATER : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
  • SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, FOR battery charges, laptop, and other electronic devices.
  • TRAINING : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at basecamp by a Guide.
  • HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
  • ASSISTANCE : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
  • CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
  • OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Summit Oxygen cylinder: 3 oxygen bottles (4 liters) for each member and 2 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa. **
  • OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa. **
  • BACK UP OXYGEN : Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
  • HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
  • ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced Sherpas (including personal Sherpa) will fix the route to the summit of Nanga Parbat (no extra charge will be applied to members).
  • SATELLITE PHONE : Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
  • WALKIE-TALKIE : Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
  • PERMITS : Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
  • WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report regularly from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) during the entire expedition.
  • MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
  • CERTIFICATE : Nanga Parbat certificate issued by PAKISTANI ALPINE CLUB (after climbing Nanga Parbat successfully).

Cost Excludes

  • AIR FARE : International flight airfare (from and to Islamabad).
  • PAKISTAN ENTRY VISA FEE : PAKISTANI Visa fee for 90 DAYS.
  • LUNCH & DINNER : Lunch & dinner during the stay in Islamabad (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
  • EXTRA NIGHTS IN ISLAMABAD & CHILAS : Extra nights’ accommodation in Islamabad & Chilas. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
  • INSURANCE POLICY : Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
  • PERSONAL EXPENSES : Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Islamabad & Skardu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
  • PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT : Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
  • TOILETRIES : Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
  • FILMING : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
  • INTERNET SERVICE : Not included during the trek.
  • SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 2000 USD.
  • TIPS : Calculate some tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
  • EXTRA : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.

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