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Overview

  • Trip Type: expeditions
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Duration: 20 Day(s)
  • Max Alt.: 8,516 m , 27,940 ft
  • Group Size: 1-12
  • Location: Khumbu, Nepal
  • Arrival On: Kathmandu Nepal
  • Departure From: Kathmandu Nepal

Mt. Lhoste Expedition (8516M)

Mt. Lhotse stands at 8516 M, making it the 4th highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516mLhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.

Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route toward the summit of Everest.

Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition first climbed Main Lhotse in 1956. Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter first climbed Lhotse Shar on December 5, 1979, by taking the SE-ridge.

A deep scar, an icy gully known as the Lhotse Couloir, marks The West Face of Lhotse; the couloir is the crucial test for the Lhotse climb, mainly because of the climbing conditions of the couloir are affected by weather and seasonal snowfall.

The route progresses through Khumbu icefall. Moving further, we will reach Camp 1 which exists at the top of Khumbu icefall that is surrounded by crevasses. From Camp 1, we will pass through lateral moraine to the west ridge that greets us with a close-up view of Lhotse. This place is perfect for Camp2. Leaving Camp2, we will reach near to Lhotse wall by crossing glaciers and ice cliffs where we will set Camp3. Camp4 is located near South Col. From Camp 4, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu (1300 m) and transfer to the hotel.

Once you arrive at Tribhuwan Airport, the Himalayan Windhorse Adventure team will escort you to our hotel “Thamel Eco Resort” at Thamel. You can relax there or explore the city. Our guide will arrive in the evening to discuss and prepare you for your trip to Mt. Lhotse Expedition.

Day 2: Kathmandu. Briefing and shopping.

In these 2 days, we will make the final preparations and arrangements for your journey. You will meet your team, guides, and Sherpa and complete the government formalities like Expedition Permit, National Park permits, and related documentation. Our team will brief you about the climb to Mt. Lhotse via the normal route.

Day 4: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2610m).

We start our Lhotse Expedition with a domestic flight to Lukla of about 35 mins. Established between a cliff and a hill with a short landing strip, Lukla Airport is known as one of the most dangerous airports in the world. We will then trek to Phakding (8km) which will take 3-4 hours. There are many cultural villages and you can view gorgeous Mount Khumbila and Mount Kusum Kangraru along the way. We will stay overnight at Phakding.

Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazaar stay lodge (3440 m).

On the 5th day of our Expedition, we will trek up to Namche Bazaar along the Dudh Koshi River. There are pine forests and several suspension bridges in the path we cross. We will also get to see the gateway of Sagarmatha National Park in Monjo. We will get our permits, there and climb to Namche Bazaar and stay there overnight. This trek will be 10 km and will take up to 5 hours.

Day 6: Acclimatization day in Namche Bazar.

Acclimatization day is a day to rest and to let our bodies adapt to the surrounding. Namche Bazar is the main trading center for the high Himalayas. There are a lot of cafes and restaurants there and the market is very lively and has a harmonious atmosphere. There is internet access and also has facilities of the hospital, post office, and a health post. There will be a short hike to explore the nearby villages as well.

Day 7: Trek Namche - Deboche (3820m).

On day 7, we will head to Deboche. This trial will go along the glacial of the Dudh Koshi River and extends to 11 km and will take 5/6 hrs. However, it gives a spectacular view of Mount Everest, Mt Ama Dablam, Mt Nuptse, and numerous other mountains. The path goes along the forest of beautiful blooming Rhododendron to Sanasa. When we arrive Sanasa we will reach a junction point which leads us to either Gokyo Valley or the Everest Base Camp. We take the second route and climb up the Tengboche Monastery and visit. This Monastery celebrates a 19 days colorful festival called Mani Rimdu in October or November. Witnessing this celebration will be an amazing experience. We will reach Deboche and spend the night there in a lodge.

Day 8: Trek Deboche(3820m) to Dingboche (4410m).

Trek Deboche(3820m) to Dingboche (4410m)
Day 8 of our Lhotse Expedition will be a trek of 11 km which takes up to 6 hours. We descend to Imja River and then trek uphill to dense forest to the village of Pangboche. And walking past the steep Pheriche to the Lobuche River, we climb a steep hill and finally reach Dingboche also known as the Summer Valley in Khumbu region. We can see exotic views of Mt Makalu, Imja River, and open savannahs. Not to mention the fields of buckwheat, barley, and potatoes. We will rest the night in Dingboche.

Day 9: Acclimatization day (4900m)

Day 9 is to rest and let your body adapt to the weather and surrounding. There are local villages that you can visit and get deeper insights into the culture and the lifestyles of the Sherpas. We will also go on a hike to Chukung village and even climb Chukung Ri if you want. It has a phenomenal view of natural beauty and the Himalayas like Mt Cho Oyu, Mt Pumori, and the Lhotse wall.

Day 10: Trek to Chukung (4730m).

On day 10 of the Lhotse Expedition, we will take a trek from Dingboche to Chukung which is located close to Island Peak. The route to Chukung has beautiful sceneries of the Himalayas. We will stay in a lodge for the night.

Day 11: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5200m).

Day 11 of the Lhotse Expedition gets rougher as the trail has boulders and glaciated rivers. We progress across through Lhotse glacier and arrive at the Base Camp for Island Peak, which has a magnificent view of the Island Peak. We will spend the night and rest at the Base Camp.

Day 12: Climbing Training

Day 12 will be for giving you training for pre climbing by our team. Mountain climbing techniques, using climbing tools and gears like ascender, harness, etc properly. You will also receive training on how to use ropes during our climb and what safety measures to take. For practice sessions, you can climb up to High camp and then back to base Camp. We will rest the night in the Island peak base camp.

Day 13: Summit Island Peak (6,119m) and back to Chukung

Our Day 13 target of Lhotse Expedition is to climb the top of Island Peak. We will start the journey early in the morning. The route is moderate at first but has a steep hillside as you reach near the peak. The surrounding of the trail frequently changes and the views are amazing but the scenery from the peak is something you will experience as breathtaking. As you advance through the glaciers with the help of ropes, the temperature drops. The weather during the afternoon can be risky so we advance to reach the summit before noon. Once you reach the top, you will be able to see an astounding view of the gracious white snow-capped mountains like Mt Nuptse, Mt Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Mt Baruntse.

Day 14: Trek to Lobuche (4910m).

We will advance our journey by heading east and follow the dangerous region of this climb, the Khumbu Icefall via Kongma La. Though there are no settlements in this area, we can still find amazing and beautiful views of the Island Peak and Amphu Lapcha Pass. We will proceed to the path along the river to reach our destination and stay overnight at Lobuche.

Day 15: Trek from Lobuche to Gorekshep (5170 m).

We pass through Khumbu Glacier where we can find memorials of many climbers ourselves. Amongst them are the memorials of 6 Sherpas who had died in an avalanche. Across the Khumbu Glacier, we will reach the Changri Nup glacier and then to Gorekshep. This trail will be 11 km and will take about 5-6 hours.

Day 16: Trek to Lhotse Base Camp / Everest Base camp (5,364m).

We will start our day early on day 16 for trekking to Everest Base camp. Our journey today will take about 3/4 hours. The path gets harder and challenging as we ascend the altitude. But the snow-covered surroundings and view of the majestic mountains make it worthwhile. We walk through the rocky dunes to finally reach The Base Camp where we meet up with the rest of the team.

Day 17: Lhotse Base Camp

During these days, our first target is well Acclimatization at Lhotse Base Camp/ Everest base camp and you can see the views of snow surrounding you everywhere as well as mount Pumori, Nuptse, and Lola. Lhotse Base Camp/Everest BC is located 5,36 m from sea level.

We will be staying at the Lhotse Base camp for 05 days. These 05 days will be for your training and acclimatization. You will be given training by our staff on how to climb and use tools and gears like an ascender, harness, etc. Training on how to use ropes, and safety gear will be given along and you can also have practice sessions.

Day 21: Trek to Camp I (5,900m).

Base Camp to Camp I is a mixed climb of about 750 meters climbing route with few steep covered with snow, ice, and rocky walls. On day 21 of the Lhotse Expedition, we will trek and cross the famous Khumbu Glacier by ladder up to Camp I. Climbing up to Camp I can be hard because of your first-day climbing experience and walking on the ladder.
So the ascend will take place early. This will be just an attempt to make you familiar with the routes and the difficulties so that you are well prepared for the final time. We will stay overnight at Camp I.

Day 23: Stay at Base Camp.

On Day 23, we will stay at the base camp. This day will be your rest period as well as training. We will also prepare for the trek to Camp I once again.

Day 24: Trek to Camp I (5,900m).

We will start our trek early in the morning and head for Camp I. This time the path will be more familiar and it will be easier. After about 7 hours you will reach Camp I once again. We will stay there for 2 days. These days are for your rest and acclimatization and from the camp one you will get to enjoy a beautiful view of the surroundings and the mountains as you prepare to ascend Camp II.

Day 26: Trek to Camp II (6,400m)

On day 26, we will climb up to Camp II which is located at the bottom of West ridge. You pass the gorge and reach Lhotse Camp II after climbing about 1300m in 9-10 hours. You will get to see a magnificent view of the Lhotse and Everest. We will stay here for 2 days for letting your body adapt to the surroundings and get rest before climbing up to Camp III. Most climbers feel most interesting climbing to Camp II with the route accompanied by the big steep faces on Ice climbing and by ladder climbing.

Day 28: Trek to Base Camp III (7100m)

We start our Day 28 with a climb to Camp III, which may be difficult for some climbers because of the effects of high altitude. The climb to Camp III mostly uses ropes as the steeps have ranged from 30 to 45 degrees. We will rest there for the night and the following day. This climb was an attempted climb so that your body adapts to the surroundings and to be more familiar with the route.

Day 30: Back to Camp II

On day 30, we climb down back to Camp II and rest there for the night.

Day 31: Camp II (6400 m)

We will stay in the base camp II for 2 days at rest. Camp II will be your second base camp and you will stay many days here to avoiding cross the Great Khumbu Glacier and ladder walking. We will rest there several days for better acclimatization.

Day 37: From Camp II to Camp III (7100 m)

Our target on day 37 will be to climb up to Camp III, those climbers who felt uneasy the first time may feel better now as their body will have adapted. After a difficult climb up to Camp III we will rest. We spend the next day there too for rest.

Day 39: Camp IV (7900 m, 8 hrs)

Camp IV (7900 m, 8 hrs)

Day 40: Camp IV to Summit. (8,516 m, 10 Hours)

Our final ascent of the Lhotse Expedition will take place on day 40. It is a 12-hour climb. Since the weather is not constant in the afternoon, we start our climb at 12:00 is. The climb will be very difficult and our climbing Sherpa and climbing guides will take you through safe routes. While climbing up to the summit, we will come across steeps that range from 40-45 degrees and sometimes an 80-degree bulge. So you need to be very careful.

The climb is difficult and tiring but once you reach the top, it will be worth the hard work. You will get to see the panoramic view of Mount Everest (8848 m), Ama Dablam (6856 m), Nuptse (7879m), the South Col, Khumbu glacier, and the snow-covered region for as far as you can see. After resting a while we will start to descend back to Camp II as soon as possible. The wind and weather can be very rough and unpredictable in the afternoon. We will stay at Camp II and rest there for the night

Day 41: Camp II to Base camp.

On day 41 of the Lhotse Expedition, our goal for the day is to climb back down to Base camp early morning. We will stay at the Base Camp.

Day 42: Rest at Base Camp

After the tiring ascent and descents, we will rest in the base camp for 2 days. We will spend the day, mostly resting and packing and cleaning the campsite. You can also explore the nearby regions.

Day 44: Trek base camp to Pheriche.

After conquering Lhotse, we begin to descend from Lhotse Base Camp to Pheriche. The trek will cover 14 km and take 7 hours to reach Pheriche. We stay overnight at Pheriche.

Day 45: Trek Pheriche to Namche bazaar.

On day 45 of the Lhotse Expedition, we trek back to Namche Bazar. We can enjoy the view as we descend down. The trail will be a 7-hour long journey and will cover up to 15 km. We will rest there for the night.

Day 46: Trek Namche bazaar to Lukla.

From Namche Bazaar to Lukla, we walk down the Namche Bazaar to follow the same downward steps. And we will also cross the checkpoint of Sagarmatha National Park to reach Lukla. It is a 7 -8-hour journey of 18 km which is not a hard path. We rest at a local lodge and prepare for the flight tomorrow.

Day 47: Fly to Kathmandu airport.

There will be an early flight to Kathmandu which will take about 35 mins. We will book you a hotel for your day off from the long and tiring climb.

Day 48: Free days Kathmandu.

You can take these days to explore Kathmandu and the nearby cities like Patan and Bhaktapur. Take a tour of the Durbar Square, visit museums and cultural sites. There are many pubs, restaurants, cafes, and spas that you might enjoy as well. You can also visit the temples and heritage sites to explore our culture.

Day 50: Transfer to airport from Hotel for departure.

This is your departure day. One of our staff will take you to the airport for your flight. We hope you enjoyed this journey and took in memories that will be exciting and thrilling to remember and share with your loved ones.

Cost Includes

  • ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
  • ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
  • WELCOME DINNER : One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.
  • CARGO CLEARANCE : Assistance for cargo clearance in Nepal’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
  • PERMIT : Expedition Royalty and permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. LHOTSE, Sagarmatha National Park, and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and fee.
  • ICEFALL FEE : Khumbu Icefall climbing charge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
  • LIAISON OFFICER : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
  • GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
  • INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
  • MAP : Trekking and climbing map.
  • DUFFLE BAG: A Duffle bag of Himalayan Windhorse Adventure company
  • MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and while returning Lukla - Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
  • EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, different transportation variants may be adopted.
  • MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 70 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
  • FOOD AND LODGING : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served regularly during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
  • PORTER : Porters per member up to the basecamp and from the basecamp (both ways).
  • BASE CAMP STAFF : Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
  • STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
  • BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
  • BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • HEATER : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
  • SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, FOR battery charges, laptop, and other electronic devices.
  • MEDICAL CHECKUP : Twice Medical checkup of each climber at the base camp before the summit attempt.
  • BAKERY AND BAR AT BASE CAMP : Bakery and bar for the team members of Seven Summit Treks.
  • TRAINING : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at basecamp by UIAGM Guide.
  • HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
  • ASSISTANCE : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
  • CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
  • BONUS : Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
  • OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Summit Oxygen cylinder: 3 oxygen bottles (4 Ltrs.) for each member and 2 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa. **
  • OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa. **
  • BACK UP OXYGEN : BACK UP Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
  • HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING : SST will have one cook, kitchen, and dining tents in Camp I and Camp II.
  • HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
  • ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route to the summit of LHOTSE (no extra charge will be applied to members).
  • SATELLITE PHONE : Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
  • WALKIE-TALKIE : Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
  • PERMITS : Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
  • INTERNET SERVICE : Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
  • WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report regularly from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) during the entire expedition.
  • MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
  • CERTIFICATE : LHOTSE climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Mt. LHOTSE successfully).

Cost Excludes

  • AIR FARE : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
  • NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE : Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.
  • LUNCH & DINNER : Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
  • EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU : Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
  • INSURANCE POLICY : Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
  • PERSONAL EXPENSES : Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
  • PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT : Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
  • TOILETRIES : Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
  • FILMING : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
  • INTERNET SERVICE : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
  • SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD.
  • TIPS : Calculate some tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
  • EXTRA : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.

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