Mt. Gasherbrum I is the 11th-highest peak in the world. It is located in the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is a part of the Gasherbrum massive, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalayas. Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. Mt.G-I is regarded as a bit more challenging than Mt. G-II. Mt. G-II (8035m/ 26362ft) is the 13th highest mountain in the world. G-I and G-II are the most remote 8,000m peaks.
The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made the first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were the first to reach the summit.
Mt. Gasherbrum I is the “least popular” of the 8000-meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with the least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult as Gasherbrum I. The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000-meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. The most common way to climb the peak is to attack the western side and all routes here lead to “The Japanese Couloir”, which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long southeast ridge to the summit.